Chasing Aurora
Aurora Borealis, Tromsø Norway
An Amateur Photographer's Journey in Tromsø, Norway
Introduction
Tromsø, Norway, often referred to as the "Gateway to the Arctic," is a destination coveted by travelers and photographers alike for its breathtaking landscapes and, most notably, the mesmerizing display of the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights. For photographers seeking to capture this ethereal phenomenon, booking an Aurora chasing tour in Tromsø promises an unforgettable experience. In this blog post, we'll delve into the journey of an amateur photographer chasing the Northern Lights in Tromsø, Norway.
The Anticipation
The anticipation of witnessing and capturing the Northern Lights is unparalleled. Months of planning, researching, and waiting for the perfect conditions culminate in the excitement of finally arriving in Tromsø. But ultimately, mother nature does not stick to schedules and cares not for your booking dates! The city's strategic location within the Arctic Circle makes it one of the best places on Earth to witness the Aurora Borealis, or rather to start your chase from.
Booking the Tour
One of the most crucial aspects of experiencing the Northern Lights in Tromsø is booking an Aurora chasing tour. These tours are led by experienced guides who are well-versed in the local weather patterns, ensuring the best chances of witnessing the Aurora. As a photographer, choosing the right tour operator is essential, as they can provide valuable insights and access to prime viewing locations away from light pollution. There are 3 main ingredients for a successful viewing of the Aurora: clear skies, Escaping light pollution, and solar activity. The guides will try their hardest to get you far away from the cities (light pollution) and find clear skies (sometimes just gaps in the clouds) but they have no control over the actual solar activity. This is where the cost/price makes a difference in the experience. More expensive, smaller group/bus tours will afford you a more comfortable ride, perhaps even more space to bring a backpack/gear (the larger coaches were very limited, most of the time your gear sits on your lap for the hours you’re driving). My recommendation for tour operators based on my limited experience would be: https://www.northernsouladventures.com/northernlights
The Chase Begins
Armed with cameras, tripods, and warm clothing, the photographer embarks on the Aurora chasing tour as dusk falls over Tromsø. The guides, often local experts and photographers with a deep understanding of the region, lead the group to remote locations where the chances of seeing the Northern Lights are highest. Here again, the size of your tour will change the chase experience. A smaller group can often go further in search of clear skies and viewing angles. On two of our 3 nights, we went all the way from Tromsø to Finland (2+ hours of driving, one way). Smaller vehicles can also pull off at more viewing spots than a big coach bus can. Although less nimble, the big buses do have one advantage over the smaller tours - they tend to have an onboard bathroom. If you’re in a 4, 8 or 16 seat van, expect a single gas-station bathroom break on the way out, with nothing but “nature’s toilet” while you’re out chasing or on the way back. In Norway, you can only stop at designated spots along their vast roadways; this means the guide has to be strategic about pulling over at a spot vs. driving further. Weather in the region is also full of micro-climates - so although the city weather report might say all clouds, drivers will look at detailed weather maps and predictions to hunt for gaps and ideal areas. They also benefit from a network of other guides who communicated about what they’re seeing in real-time, it felt a lot like the safari experience in the Serengeti. As the darkness envelops the landscape, the anticipation reaches its peak.
A Dance in the Sky - Photographer tips and notes
A group of aurora chasers watches from their campfire.
And then, it happens. The first hints of green appear on the horizon, slowly intensifying into vibrant ribbons of light dancing across the Arctic sky. It can last for minutes or hours, so it’s important to be ready and agile when the time comes. And the biggest tip here is to know (and bring) your gear. All the guides you’ll read online will give some version of camera settings like 5-15 second shutter speeds, high ISO (above 1600), and wide-open apertures. This is a great starting place, but depending on how the aurora shows for you, you will DEFINITELY need to adjust these settings to best capture the lights. For example, on a particularly bright and active showing, I found myself shooting 1 and 3 second shutter speeds and dropping the ISO to reduce noise and avoid blowing out highlights. It also pays to be adaptable and creative in dark, icy and cold shooting conditions with plenty of other people around, but more on that next…
Other notable thoughts
Chasing the Northern Lights in Tromsø is not without its challenges. Unpredictable weather, including clouds and snowfall, can obscure the view, testing the patience of even the most dedicated photographers. And it’s important to understand that the majority of tours are not really catered to the serious photographer, they have to fill their charters after all. Expect headlamps, flashlights, and all sorts of other errant lighting that will constantly ruin your night vision. The guides will also often reserve a good amount of time taking aurora portraits of all the chasers (which are great, not complaining here), which will make them hyper-sensitive to random light sources (like a red headlamp or green delay-shutter indicator). They undoubtedly make some additional income selling high-res versions of these portraits, so just be respectful and let them do their thing even if they’re taking the prime shooting location.
Now about the cold… pretty much every arctic excursion will come with the use of thermal suits, some guides will insist guests use them while venturing our into the cold. I used them on our first excursion, they keep one plenty warm in the 20 degree (F) cold and guard against any wind chills. But if you have your own multi-layer system (base layers, down/insulating layer, protective shell), I would say go with what you have. The thermal suits never fit particularly well and have limited adjustability. Between getting in and out of the warm van and moving about for different angles, you never really stay in one spot in the cold so long that I really felt the warm suits were necessary (but perhaps I’m more accustomed to wildlife stake-outs in the cold for hours at a time). One useful recommendation is a pair of photographer’s gloves - ones that allow you to fold back finger and thumb coverings for quick access for making camera adjustments without fully taking off your gloves. See an example of my recommended kit below (with details listed below the blog post)
Conclusion
For photographers and observers alike, booking an Aurora chasing tour in Tromsø, Norway, is an experience like no other. From the anticipation of witnessing the Northern Lights to the thrill of capturing their beauty through the lens of a camera, every moment is filled with wonder and excitement. Despite the challenges posed by nature, the rewards of witnessing the Aurora Borealis in all its glory make the journey truly unforgettable.
My Kit Details
Camera: Nikon Z8
Lens: Nikkor Z 20mm 1.8
Memory: Angelbird CF Express type B, 512 GB
Tripod: Peak Design Travel Tripod (Carbon Fiber version)
[Pro]Master multi-layer photographer’s gloves
Black Diamond Storm headlamp (Anything with red-light will do)
Multi-tool/air rocket
Cold weather gear: warm beanie, buff/neck gaiter, etc. <— Think snowboarding gear with wool base-layers and mountaineering socks
Salomon Quest 4 GTX hiking boots
Suggested Apps:
https://www.yr.no/en; accurate weather including real-time cloud maps
https://www.photopills.com/; general photography planning app
https://www.spaceweatherlive.com/; detailed info used by guides
